One of our showcase, delicious but easy to cook game recipes, created by Steve Pigeon, head chef of the Arundell Arms, Lifton, Devon.
One very cold snow-bound afternoon years ago, my father-in-law invited me to take his dog Whisky and go flighting. As Whisky and I approached the river across snowed-over stubble a few duck got up and flew off; that was the last duck we saw.
Spring this year, admittedly was a little late,but certainly got off to a good start, with the trout reservoirs producing great sport and some fine over winter trout. On the other hand, the wood pigeon shooting has not been too bad, although the rape seed crops in some areas did not really recover and are still a bit patchy. With the spring drilling late as well, this gave a chance for some fair bags of wood pigeon before the rain and sunshine fed the barley.
People travel from far and wide to come to the Pot Kiln and eat this, our most famous dish. It was inspired by the French form of butchering a “slab or tile” from the haunch of beef or lamb. It involves separating the primal muscles from the thigh, then trimming off all silvery sinew and fat until you are left with a piece of meat that looks like fillet but has the flavour of rump.